Common Trees of Oregon

European and Japanese plum trees are a common sight in Oregon yards. They have distinctively dark leaves, rich bark, and a frantic growth pattern. They grow fast and tangle up quickly if left alone. Prune lightly but consistently—plums don’t like hard cuts, and aggressive pruning can trigger more suckering.

Late summer to early fall is the safest window for pruning—especially in Oregon’s damp climate. Avoid winter or early spring cuts to prevent fungal infections like silver leaf and canker.

Common problems in Oregon include black knot fungus, aphids, and heavy fruit loads that snap limbs.

Apple trees are a classic part of Oregon yards—but they won’t thrive without the right structure, airflow, and regular pruning. Whether you're growing for fruit or shade, good cuts make all the difference. You want strong, evenly spaced limbs that let light reach every part of the tree.

In general, fruit trees need to be trimmed annually. With apple trees, Late winter to early spring (before bud break) is the best time for pruning. You can clearly see the structure, and cuts heal quickly as growth kicks in.

Ornamental pear trees—like the common Callery or Bradford pear—offer showy blooms and clean lines. They are often used in sidewalk strips and other civic landscaping, as they grow quickly, heartily, and vertically. 

These trees grow quickly, often with tight branch angles that can split under wind, snow, or weight. Prune young to encourage wide, sturdy branch spacing and a central leader.

They’re prone to breakage, crowding, and poor structure. Regular care keeps them safe and looking sharp. Late winter or early spring—just before bud break—is ideal for pruning. You’ll get a clear view of the structure and avoid disease pressure from wet cuts.

Cherries are tenacious. They grow quickly and recover well from damage/breakage. The Willamette valley provides the perfect growing conditions for many cherry species, making us home to some of the best sweet cherry orchards in the world. 

However, if these trees are left unchecked, they will often outgrow themselves. They are prone to weak branch unions as well as canopy crowding and fungal infections. Proper airflow and light penetration are important to maintaining the health of the tree. 

These trees need to be trimmed annually for a healthy structure. Best time to prune is late summer or early fall. Cherries are more vulnerable to fungal diseases in cold, wet weather.

Japanese maples are prized for their colors and distinguished structure. Small, showy, and slow-growing for a maple. With artful and attentive pruning these trees are easy to keep healthy and well-shaped.

Late summer is ideal for pruning, revealing the tree’s structure and layered canopy. Never top a japanese maple. Keep them in partial shade and water often.

Often called Norway Maple, these trees are hardy and fast-growing. They provide a lot of shade, and can handle cold winters and hot summers. Shallow root systems can cause damage to nearby sidewalks and driveways. 

It is best to prune these trees in late winter/early spring. But they do not mind trimming year round. Without proper pruning they are prone to overcrowding in the canopy. 

Keep an eye out for aphids, powdery mildew, and overcrowding. Fast-growing trees need steady guidance. With the right structure and regular thinning, your Nordic maple will stay safe, sturdy, and shade-ready.

These trees can grow to be gentle giants if properly managed. Their leaves are characterized by a unique serration that creates a beautiful effect on a windy day. The wood, however, is relatively soft and brittle and often breaks in wind storms. It is important to plant these trees with plenty of space and to prune them regularly. I can’t tell you how many times I have seen these trees outgrow small, urban lawns.

Pruning in Fall or winter is best. Make sure to reduce weight off the lowest limbs to reduce the chances of failure. Regularly thin the canopy to reduce wind resistance and reveal the structure of the tree. 

Another fast-growing maple. These trees are known for the autumn colors and reliable shade. If pruned early for structure, they can be a low-fuss tree in later years. Develop a single, strong, central leader with evenly spaced scaffold branches. Otherwise, these trees often develop codominant stems which are prone to breakage.

Prune in the late winter before budding. Red maples give a lot, but they need guidance early on. Get the shape right, keep the crown open, and you’ll have strong shade and a fall color show for decades.

Weeping Willow

Corkscrew Willow

Leyland cypress

Italian cypress

Arborvitae

Red oak

Pin oak